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Maison Francis Kurkdjian-inspired

Oud Satin Mood

OrientalUnisex44 ingredients

A faithful oriental reconstruction at Intermediate difficulty — built from 44 materials and dosed for an eau de parfum near 20%.

The Notes

Composition

Top

Linalool, Citronellol, Linalyl Acetate

Heart

Rose, Ethyl Maltol, Iralia Total

Base

Galaxolide, Oud, Vanillin, Sandalore, Timbersilk

Specification

At a glance

Ingredients
44
Difficulty
Intermediate
Recommended Concentrate
20% EDP
Fragrance family
Oriental
Profile
Unisex

The Build

Formula preview

The opening materials, with percentages obscured. The full weighable formula unlocks the moment you buy.

Formula preview44 ingredients
No.MaterialProportion
01Galaxolide 50%16–18%
02Ethyl Maltol10–13%
03Vanillin8–10%
04Iralia Total6–9%
+ 40 more ingredientsFull formula unlocked on purchase

About

About this formula

Oud Satin Mood is one of the most celebrated modern orientals, a fragrance that bridges the opulence of traditional oud-rose compositions with a soft, almost powdery sensuality that feels entirely contemporary. Its staying power in the niche and luxury market comes from its ability to feel both deeply rich and effortlessly wearable, a balance that is genuinely difficult to achieve.

The opening of this reconstruction is built on a trio of floral-fresh materials: linalool, citronellol, and linalyl acetate. These are not showy top notes designed to grab attention and vanish. Instead, they function as a softening veil, introducing a gentle, slightly rosy-green airiness that eases the wearer into the composition. Linalool brings a smooth lavender-adjacent floralcy, citronellol contributes the dewy, fresh facet of rose, and linalyl acetate adds a light, clean fruitiness that lifts the entire opening without sweetening it prematurely.

The heart is where the formula reveals its intentions. Rose, rendered here in a full-bodied form, sits alongside ethyl maltol, which introduces that signature soft, cotton-candy warmth without tipping into cloying territory. Iralia total -- a rich, complex floral aldehyde material -- adds depth and a slightly powdery, almost iris-adjacent quality that gives the heart its distinctive satin-like texture. This combination is what produces that velvet-smooth mid-phase the original is known for. The base grounds everything with authority. Galaxolide provides a clean, skin-close musk foundation that extends wear and blends the layers seamlessly. Oud material adds the resinous, woody core that anchors the oriental character without dominating. Vanillin amplifies the warmth and softness while sandalore contributes a sandalwood-like creaminess. Timbersilk rounds the dry-down with an airy, cedar-inflected smoothness that keeps the base from feeling heavy.

This formula is rated intermediate, and that rating reflects the care required to blend and dilute accurately at a 20 percent EDP concentrate. The materials themselves are approachable -- none require specialist handling -- but achieving the right balance between the floral heart and the resinous base demands patience and precision in your weighing. Home perfumers who have worked with musk and vanillin combinations before will feel comfortable here. Those newer to oriental structures will find this a genuinely rewarding challenge that teaches a great deal about layering depth without muddiness.

This is a fragrance that suits anyone drawn to warm, enveloping scents with staying power. It performs best in cooler weather and evening settings, though its softness keeps it from feeling oppressive in transitional seasons. It suits all genders equally well.

ScentFormulas provides GCMS-informed reconstructions so that you can study, build, and wear the world's most admired fragrances from your own bench.

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Questions

Frequently asked

What skill level does the Oud Satin Mood formula need?+

This formula is rated intermediate. It uses 44 materials and comes with step-by-step maceration and dilution guidance, so it suits makers comfortable with weighing materials on a precision scale. Every material is listed with its CAS number so you can source the exact item.

Where do I buy the ingredients?+

All of the materials are stocked by the major hobby-perfumery suppliers in the US, EU, UK and Australia. Each material includes its CAS number to make ordering unambiguous, and our free Ingredients Guide lists trusted suppliers by region. Specialty bases are flagged with supplier notes in the formula.

How much fragrance will this make?+

The formula is given per 100 g of concentrate, with grams-per-100g figures for every material, and our on-screen batch calculator scales it to 10 g, 50 g, 1 kg or any size instantly. Diluted to roughly 20% in perfumer's alcohol, a 100 g concentrate batch makes around 500 g of finished eau de parfum.

Is it legal to make a clone of a designer fragrance?+

Yes, for personal use. Fragrance scents themselves are not protected by copyright, and our formulas are original reconstructions — our own interpretations, not the houses' confidential formulae. Trademarks protect names and logos, which is why we describe formulas as "inspired by" a fragrance and never use brand logos. Read more on our blog about clone-formula legality.

What about IFRA compliance?+

Each formula includes IFRA notes. The percentages describe the concentrate; your skin-level exposure depends on the final dilution. If you ever sell or gift a finished product you should check the current IFRA Standards for restricted materials and confirm the maximum for your product category. For personal use, always patch-test and follow supplier safety data.

Can I get a refund on a formula?+

Because formulas are digital products delivered instantly, we do not offer change-of-mind refunds. We will, however, refund or correct any formula that contains a genuine material error within 7 days of purchase. See our refund policy for details.

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