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Thameen London-inspired

The Hope

OrientalUnisex45 ingredients

A faithful oriental reconstruction at Advanced difficulty — built from 45 materials and dosed for an eau de parfum near 18%.

The Notes

Composition

Top

hedione, iso e super, ethylene brassylate glycol

Heart

muscone, helvetolide, muscenone delta

Base

ambroxan, patchouli oil, amber core, vanillin, costus oliffac, tonalid tetralin

Specification

At a glance

Ingredients
45
Difficulty
Advanced
Concentration
18% EDP
Fragrance family
Oriental
Profile
Unisex

The Build

Formula preview

The opening materials, with percentages obscured. The full weighable formula unlocks the moment you buy.

Formula preview45 ingredients
No.MaterialProportion
01ISO E SUPER25–27%
02ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE GLYCOL15–17%
03HEDIONE10–13%
04DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL7–9%
+ 41 more ingredientsFull formula unlocked on purchase

About

About this formula

The Hope by its prestigious house is a fragrance that occupies rare territory: an oriental composition that feels simultaneously ancient and modern, built around a musky core so seamlessly blended that the structure nearly disappears into skin. It has earned its following not through loudness but through the quiet authority of a scent that lingers long after the wearer has left the room.

The opening of this reconstruction is shaped by three materials working in close concert. Hedione brings its well-documented jasmine-diffusive quality, lending the formula an airy brightness that prevents the heavier base from feeling oppressive at first contact. Iso E Super, used here with restraint, adds a cedar-like woody resonance and contributes to the signature radiant projection this type of fragrance demands. Ethylene brassylate glycol, a macrocyclic musk ester, introduces a clean, skin-close softness that begins pulling the composition downward toward the heart from the very first moments of wear.

The heart is dedicated entirely to musk, and it is here that the formula earns its complexity. Muscone, a natural-origin macrocyclic musk, delivers the dense, animalic warmth at the center of the accord. Helvetolide adds a fruity, transparent facet that lifts the accord and prevents it from becoming too heavy. Muscenone delta completes the trio with a slightly green, refined musky character that gives the heart its sense of depth without opacity. These three materials are rarely used together at this concentration, and calibrating their balance is the central challenge of the build.

The base is where longevity and character are anchored. Ambroxan provides the familiar ambergris-like warmth and exceptional skin-melding diffusion that has made it a staple of modern oriental work. Patchouli oil grounds the formula with earthy, woody texture that prevents the musk accord from floating free of structure. Amber core adds resinous sweetness and cohesion. Vanillin softens the composition's edges without tipping it into gourmand territory. Costus oliffac introduces a subtle animalic, hair-like dimension that is period-accurate to the style of fragrance this formula evokes. Tonalid tetralin, a polycyclic musk, extends the dry-down and adds a soft textile quality that makes the base feel worn rather than merely applied. This is rated as an advanced build. The interaction between multiple musk classes at an 18 percent EDP concentrate requires careful measurement and extended maceration time. Home perfumers with experience in musk accord work will find the material list logical, but newcomers should expect several rounds of adjustment before achieving balance.

This formula suits those who wear fragrance as a second skin rather than a statement. It performs equally well in close-contact settings and reads as genuinely unisex across a wide range of skin chemistries. It is suited to cooler weather but works year-round for wearers who prefer intimate projection over sillage.

ScentFormulas provides GCMS-informed material lists and concentration data so independent perfumers can build, study, and refine with confidence.

Reviews

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Questions

Frequently asked

What skill level does the The Hope formula need?+

This formula is rated advanced. It uses 45 materials and comes with step-by-step maceration and dilution guidance, so it suits makers comfortable with weighing materials on a precision scale. Every material is listed with its CAS number so you can source the exact item.

Where do I buy the ingredients?+

All of the materials are stocked by the major hobby-perfumery suppliers in the US, EU, UK and Australia. Each material includes its CAS number to make ordering unambiguous, and our free Ingredients Guide lists trusted suppliers by region. Specialty bases are flagged with supplier notes in the formula.

How much fragrance will this make?+

The formula is given per 100 g of concentrate, with grams-per-100g figures for every material, and our on-screen batch calculator scales it to 10 g, 50 g, 1 kg or any size instantly. Diluted to roughly 18% in perfumer's alcohol, a 100 g concentrate batch makes around 500 g of finished eau de parfum.

Is it legal to make a clone of a designer fragrance?+

Yes, for personal use. Fragrance scents themselves are not protected by copyright, and our formulas are original reconstructions — our own interpretations, not the houses' confidential formulae. Trademarks protect names and logos, which is why we describe formulas as "inspired by" a fragrance and never use brand logos. Read more on our blog about clone-formula legality.

What about IFRA compliance?+

Each formula includes IFRA notes. The percentages describe the concentrate; your skin-level exposure depends on the final dilution. If you ever sell or gift a finished product you should check the current IFRA Standards for restricted materials and confirm the maximum for your product category. For personal use, always patch-test and follow supplier safety data.

Can I get a refund on a formula?+

Because formulas are digital products delivered instantly, we do not offer change-of-mind refunds. We will, however, refund or correct any formula that contains a genuine material error within 7 days of purchase. See our refund policy for details.

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